Eva For Philipp Plein

December 17, 2021

Words by Martino Carrera at WWD

Philipp Plein is having a lot of fun with women’s wear, a burgeoning segment for his brand.

For his pre-fall collection, the designer offered his usual razzmatazz, full of vivid colors, rhinestones and sequins, applied to everything from mini frocks to loose sweats for a clientele, which is not as young as one would imagine.

Nineties supermodel Eva Herzigova was tapped for look book images and embodies the grown-up girls who might lounge in sequined tracksuits done in mint and purple — as in a DIY alteration of their boyfriend’s sweats — or indulge in sparkling minidresses to live their jet-set life dancing the stress away in Mykonos and Saint Tropez.

Wet-look bodycon dresses sparkled and dazzled in a variety of nuances, worn underneath oversize puffer jackets with giant golden studs, while knitwear was worked for sinuous ribbed knit frocks, some coming with crisscross drawstrings at the back or cutouts on the side, and for graffiti-painted cardigans with faux fur trimmings.

To offset the dazzling offering, the designer introduced bleached denimwear with sartorial coats, girlish pleated and ruffled frocks with bows, leopard print pantsuits and perfectly fit biker jackets making for the more approachable outfits in this collection, which also marked the introduction of the brand’s first costume jewelry line.

“We wanted to make the look also wearable apart from the show pieces…to have items that people actually can wear and we wanted to show also on real women, not only on Instagram models or 20-year-old influencers,” he said during a walk-through at the company’s recently unveiled sprawling headquarters.

The overall casual-meets-glamour mix reflected Plein’s state of mind, overexcited by the number of projects he’s working on, including the relaunch of the Plein Sport line as an activewear brand.

“Our woman either goes to the gym and hangs out with her friends at home or goes to parties,” Plein said.

Plein is clearly trying hard to strike a balance between the casual and glitzy sides of his creative ethos, but he remains a maximalist at heart.